Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? Thanks English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. 829 posts. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? Sartoria Dalcuore and W & S; both very interesting articles. There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. i.e. First fitting was very compromised. Very nice suit. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. Thanks. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? We wanted clients to be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open. So, if youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you know where to go. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? Wonderful. Cheers. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. No, the style is different in other ways too. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. I have checked them out however note that: The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. Kind Regards However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. hi Simon, very interesting article. I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. Also, is their normally a third fitting?. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. The prices are comparable. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. Very good sales and marketing. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Thanks for your blog Simon! What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. Great service and advice. Im sure you have more ideas for content than you can possibly cover, so just a couple of suggestions! Thanks! This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. But then youre paying over twice the price. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! 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